Musée de l'Ardoise

Haut-Martelange © Thomas Jutzler

Transforming Experiences Slate Museum in Haut-Martelange

3 minutes

A slate story

Story Summary

  • The slate museum in Martelange presents the history of slate in Luxembourg.
  • Former workers like René Risch bring history to life by sharing their experiences.
  • Restored buildings and a fascinating underground tour offer insights into the challenging work environment of the slate industry from 1790 to 1986.
  • The "Bopebistro" serves as a meeting place for slate enthusiasts and members of the "Frënn vun der Lee" association.

Nestled in the rolling hills of quaint Haut-Martelange lies a place that takes visitors back to a time when slate was worked by hand. The rocks are living history and presented in fascinating ways at the new Slate Museum in Haut-Martelange.

Carefully restored buildings and a panoply of artifacts make up the Slate Museum and offer visitors a glimpse into an often overlooked but fundamental part of Luxembourg’s industrial history from 1790 to 1986. The real treasure however, is not the exhibits but the people who worked here.

During our visit we were lucky enough to meet René Risch, a former worker who transformed slate rock into functional materi­als. His eyes sparkle, his posture is marked by hard work. He is the face of an industry that played a vital role in the past century.

Off to work at 14 years old

René’s stories bring the museum to life. He tells of the difficult working conditions he and his co-workers faced, the camarade­rie and the small pleasures they found amidst the hard work. This isn’t just about the history of slate. It’s about the stories of people who dedicated their lives to this hard but rewarding job.

With a hint of melancholy, René leads us to the back corner of the museum where light falls through an old window. “Here,” he says pointing at a bench. “This was my first spot.”

He leans against the wall, his fin­gers gently grazing the familiar surface. “I was a kid, 14 years old, when I started. It was hard. Real­ly hard. The hours were long and slate-splitting requires precision and concentration.”

With an almost youthful smile, René show us an old slate-splitting tool. He sits down and carefully lifts a raw stone. “I wonder if I can still do it,” he says playfully.

The room goes quiet as we all watch him place the rock onto the device and begin. Utter silence. Then, the scratching noise of the machine. René’s movements reveal the familiarity and precision of an experienced craftsman. There are many small movements. Krrk, krrk, krrk. And voilà: a perfectly split slab of slate appears on his palm.

After our meeting with René, another guide leads visitors into the depths of the slate mine. Equipped with helmets we begin the descent. The air is cooler and soon we hear the rhythmic drops of water forming dark pools on the rugged ground. Small puddles on the stairs, huge lakes at the bottom of this ramified cave. The humidity is intense and makes our skin feel cold and clammy.

The history of slate mining is brought to life in impressive ways in these mining tunnels. Light and video installations illuminate the galleries and create vivid shadows dancing on the walls. They highlight the raw beauty of slate and, quite literally, shine a new light on the work that was done here.

Musée de l'Ardoise

Haut-Martelange © Thomas Jutzler

Revelations below ground

The video installations show miners at work and convey a realistic portrayal of what it was like to work in these tunnels.

The sounds of hammering and chiselling meld with the voices of men who worked here long ago. But it’s not just history you get to experience here. It’s nature. The humidity, cold, constant dripping…everything reminds us that this place might have been shaped by humans but continues to be ruled by nature.

After a remarkable tour of the mines, visitors return to the surface and, with a little luck, might run into René at the “Bo­pebistro”, the museum bistro and a comfy spot to enjoy a cup of coffee and local specialties.

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Slate friends

Here, René regularly meets members of the “Frënn vun der Lee” club, a group of enthusiasts who banded together to preserve this significant cultural heritage. Even though the other members are younger than René, they share his passion for the craft and history of slate. They listen intently as he shares stories, experiences and knowledge of his time as a worker here. These meetups are more than just friendly get-togethers. They are living proof of how committed this community is to preserving local history.

In this heartfelt ambiance, you can sense the joy René and his younger friends feel and the pride they take in their heritage. They invite everyone to join them, to learn and experience the unique culture and history of slate mining in Luxembourg.

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Experience work below ground

  • After a long planning phase, the Slate Museum opened in 2023. Many de­dicated people and former workers were involved in making it the inspirational place it is today. The effort was rewarded with a “Luxem­bourg Tourism Award 2023” in three categories.
  • Curious about work “below ground”? Several locations bring Luxembourg’s industrial past to life. Check out the outdoor museum at Fond-de-Gras, a former mine in the southern part of Luxembourg that can be visited with a bumpy ride on the yellow “Minièresbunn” mine train. Unlike the slate mines of the north, these are red-coloured iron-ore mines that were the foundation of steel production in Luxem­bourg. Take the mine train to the neighbouring village of Lasauvage for more insights into steel production and the life of mine workers.
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